Here is another glue tip. It is a take off of some of my earlier tips, but you may not of thought about this one.
I do a lot of woodworking and do not like to use plywood or particle board for many of my project because of the difficulty of dealing with ugly raw edges of the material. Years ago, I used to use "T" molding for the edges. Many of you are familiar with this product. It is a "T" shaped strip of plastic that has a tang that presses into a slot cut along the edge of the material. It works, but it is not wood and still looks ugly. The second product that you can buy at your woodworking supply store is a preglued edge banding. It comes on rolls with a coat of "hot melt" glue on the back side. You put this on with a hot iron. It has two problems. The wood never matches the other wood exactly and the bond can be a problem on particle board. Here is my tip.
Cut your own edge strip with a good sharp saw blade about 1/16" thick or less. The thinner the better. The reason for that is that you want the glue line to be stronger than the wood strip so that the glue bond wins in any tug-of-war with expansion and contraction. Make the strip 1/32 wider than the material that you are covering. Next, apply your PVA glue to "both" the strip and the edge of the item to be covered and let "dry". Next, cut your strip to the length required with about 1/16" extra. Now, using masking tape, tape the strip onto the edge being covered. Now that you have it all aligned, take your hot cloths iron and press the strip onto the edge being covered. As you go along pull off the tape ahead of the iron. Pay special attention to the corners, inside and out. I like to true up the first strip at the corner before I apply the strip for the other side of the corner. It seems to work better if you "lap" the corners rather than using a 45 degree. When you first applied the PVA glue to the edge of the material being covered, take care to get good coverage at the corner.
If you have done this right, all you need to do now is to sand the edge with a sanding block to remove any of the 1/13" over lap. Put a good radius on the finished edge. Now all you have to do is the staining or painting and every thing will match. I some time use contrasting colored wood for affect.
I make my strips about 1/32" thick and cut them to length with scissors or a school paper cutter. You can saw wider strips on a good band saw and use this technique to reface your cabinets. If you were to try the above with "wet" glue, it would require all kinds of complex clamping and you still would not get as good of a job. There is a saw blade that you can order from Totalsawsolutions.com that will allow you to cut perfect strips as thin as 0.020". That is what I use.
Happy woodworking!
